Princess cut diamonds – features and evaluation

Princess cut diamonds – features and evaluation

Princess cut diamonds knowledge

If you have been in the market looking for diamonds for an engagement ring, then you must have surely come across the term “princess cut diamond”. This is a very popular cut but not more popular than the round cut. However, this is just one of the many types of cuts diamonds can be found in and was introduced in the market only a few decades earlier. The “princess cut diamond” was once also called the “profile cut” that was originally designed by Arpad Nagy in the year 1961. However, the “princess” appendage was included to another very similar cut by Ygal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar as well as Israel Itzkowitz from Israel.

Princess cut diamond

Princess cut diamonds, off Diamonds-USA inventory

Princess cut diamond parts diagram

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Features of Princess Cut diamonds

Shape: This cut diamond is square in shape with rounded top and contains either 57 facets or 76. The pyramidal shape of these diamonds reflects light quite brilliantly thus making it really shiny. So that means even if there are inclusions in the diamond it can be hidden within and hence this makes it affordable. Hence, these diamonds are more popularly used in solitaire engagement rings as well as earrings. They are also popularly used in wedding bands because of its square shape because of which they can be placed adjacent to one another.

     Princess cut diamonds and blue Sapphires channel set in a ring
Princess Diamonds & Sapphires in a channel set wdding ring

Size: The princess cut diamond looks larger than round cut diamonds owing to the top rounded portion. Its pyramid shape makes it look larger in size compared to a round cut diamond.

Shine: It is said to be the square version of a round cut diamond and are two of the most popular cuts of diamonds found anywhere. While to the un trained eye it might seem that both these cuts have the same brilliance the expert eye will be able to distinguish the subtle difference in sparkle in both of these diamonds. Round cuts are said to be more brilliant compared to the princess cut but the difference is almost negligible. However, due to its high reflectivity, princess diamonds can hide inclusions and hence are more affordable when used in rings as well as earrings.

Facets: Usually, these diamonds will have 58 facets. This is the same number of facets as round cut diamond has. The look of the diamond is largely affected by the number of chevrons on the lower half of the pyramidal stone.

Things to look for in princess cut diamonds
Shape: An ideal square diamond is supposed to have a length and width ratio that does not exceed 1:05:1. Make sure that the diamond you choose does not have uneven sides. Un equal proportions make your diamond look less attractive.
Symmetry: Draw an imaginary line through the length of the stone and compare the facets on both sides. This symmetry is pivotal in making the diamond attractive to the eyes. Another important thing to check is whether or not all the points in the facets are meeting and that there are no extra or missing facets. Now, draw a horizontal imaginary line through the diamond and compare the facets at the bottom half as well as the top half for symmetry. This makes a diamond very desirable.
Scintillation: An attractive diamond should have a pleasing balance of light and dark patterns instead of a too light or too dark pattern.
Pavilion bulge: Hold the diamond in your hand and bring it close to your eyes and check through a X10 magnifying glass to see if the pavilion slopes gently from the girdle towards the cutlet. A steep slope may cause a bulge in the pavilion which in turn can make the diamond look dark and less attractive.

Evaluating the cut
The cutting of the diamond determines how attractive it will look. However, there is no uniform agreement about the best proportions for the princess cut. Even a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certified diamond has no grade for the cut but only for the polishing as well as symmetry. For a princess cut diamond, you should try looking for stones with a depth (height) of about 70% of the width. Also, it should retain a square shape from the top but make sure that you choose a ring or any ornament that protects the corners of the stone. If your jeweler uses other stone settings with your princess cut, then make sure that the color of the accent diamonds either match the color of the center stone or is just a grade apart and not more than that.

Popular use of the princess cut diamond
These diamonds are mostly used in solitaire engagement rings or wedding bands. They are often mounted in the four-prong or bezel setting because both these settings are such that they protect the corners of the diamond from chipping. Side stones are often used to enhance the beauty of these diamonds. Baguettes - both normal as well as tapered, triangles as well as trillions are paired with these.

Princes cut solitaire engagement ring
Princess in a solitaire engagement ring

Yellow princess cut ring with two side triangle diamonds

Princess engagement ring with side Triangle diamonds

They say that diamonds are a girl’s best friend but it really depends on the kind of diamond she is wearing on her. A bridal engagement ring or a band is supposed to last a lifetime holding precious memories and creating more every day. So, brilliance in her diamond is something every girl looks up to. Two of the most brilliant cut diamonds are the round cut and the princess cut. While it may really be difficult to choose one of the two, it might well depend on affordability and choice. The princess cut is popular because of its contemporary style. Of course you need to choose a diamond that fits your budget but sometimes you can stretch your pocket just a little when it comes to investing for a lifetime.
Princess diamonds look extremely gorgeous in a four-prong setting and the larger ones may require a six-prong setting. These work well in jewelry with floral setting too and all of these can be found at a lesser cost compared to the round cut diamonds.

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