Motifs from nature including insects,
birds (especially peacocks and swans), serpents, undulating vines, leaves,
flowers (irises, orchids, poppies, water lilies, winded sycamore and maple seeds
are favorites in the style's botanical repertoire), the female face and figure
(nude and clothed), fantasy figures and "whiplash" curves were all part of the
Art Nouveau aesthetic. Japanese decorative arts also influenced Art Nouveau
jewelry designs.
Sigfried Bing opened his L'Art Nouveau
gallery in Paris in 1895. Ren'e Lalique exhibited Art Nouveau jewels at Bing's
gallery and at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. Bing was awarded the
Grand Prix at the expo. Tiffany and Co. exhibited and received awards at the
1901 Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York. The Art Nouveau style was at
its peak of popularity during the Edwardian period
Gold and silver were the preferred metals
during the Art Nouveau period. Natural materials, such as clarified horn and
ivory, were often combined with glass and enamel - especially plique-a'-jour, a
transparent enamel without a metal backing. Cabochon gemstones, such as opals
and moonstones, as well as pearls were incorporated into designs featuring
stylized motifs from nature. Diamonds and faceted colored gemstones were added
to accent or outline a design's details.
Ren'e Lalique, Henri Vever, Licien
Gautrait and Georges Fouquet were foremost among France's delineators of the Art
Nouveau style. In the U.S., Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Co., Marcus & Co.,
and Newark, New Jersey, manufacturers such as Riker Bros., Krementz & Co.,
Alling & Co., Whiteside & Blank and Bippart, Griscom & Osborn translated the
style for American taste.
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Also knows as "the garland style",
Edwardian Engagement
rings and jewelry was inspired by the decorative elements adorning
eighteenth-century French Louis XVI furniture and objects such as bows, ribbons,
wreaths, urns, stars, crescents and, of course, garlands of small floral and
foliate motifs. Open trelliswork and millegrained knife-edge wires and collets
created the appearance of lace in saw-pierced platinum mounts set throughout
with circular cut diamonds.
The Boer War began in South Africa in 1899
and consequently prices for De Beers reserve stock rose. Queen Victoria died in
1901 and the coronation of her eldest son, Edward VII took place the following
year. Edward VII died in 1910, but the style that bears his name continued into
the 1920s. Louis Comfort Tiffany exhibited his jewelry designs for the first
time at the 1904 St. Louis, Missouri, World's Fair. In 1910, the Ballets Russes
performed Sch'ehe'razade in Paris, inspiring a trend toward colorful and exotic
designs the greatly influenced the decorative arts - including jewelry - in the
following decade. August Victor Louis Verneuil received U.S. patents for his
flame fusion process for synthetic rubies in 1904 and for blue sapphires in
1911. The U.s. National Stamping Act, requiring the marking of gold and silver
content, was enacted in 1906. The Cullinan Diamond, which was 3,106 carats in
its rough form, was presented to Edward VII in 1907. Joseph Asscher cleaved the
diamond in 1908. The Cullinan I, a 530.20-carat pear-shaped stone, and Cullinan
II, a 317.40-carat cushion-shaped stone, were mounted in the Scepter and
Imperial State Crown for the coronation of George V in 1911. The same year,
Evalyn Walsh McLean purchased the Hope Diamond from Cartier. The Titanic sank in
1912
Platinum was by far the most often used
metal until World War I. Platinum-topped yellow gold was seen in high-end jewels
of the early Edwardian period and also in less expensive jewelry of the teens
and 1920s. Karl Gustav Richter in 1915 and the Belais Brothers in 1917 patented
alloys for white gold, which were used as a substitute for platinum during and
after World War I. Diamonds, pearls and moonstones were favored for the
all-white "garland style", but high-quality, large faceted colored gemstones
were often used as a focal point for an otherwise all-diamond and platinum
jewel.
In France, Cartier was the delineator of
the garland style. In Russia, the guilloch'e enamels of Faberg'e were likewise
representative of the period. In the U.S., Tiffany & Co. and Marcus & Co.
produced designs the rivaled those of the French haute Joailliers. Newark, New
Jersey, manufacturers were influenced by both the Art Nouveau and Edwardian
styles.
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The Art Deco style reflected a compendium
of influences and motifs including stylized flower baskets, bowls and vases;
graceful animals such as gazelles, greyhounds and panthers; and fountains,
ziggurats (graduated stepped pyramidal shapes, like skyscrapers), streamline and
"speed" motifs with parallel lines, geometric and angular shapes. Egyptian,
Oriental and (East) Indian designs elements and colors co-existed with all-white
pav'e diamond and platinum jewels. Flat, compacted two-dimensional geometric
designs of the 1920s became more three-dimensional, open and chunky in the
1930s. Flexible strap or narrow bangle bracelets worn in multiples and long
pendent earrings were the dernier cri of the 1920s. Wider open link bracelets -
stacked on one arm or both - and dress clips - worn singly or in pairs along the
top edge of an evening gown - were the signature look of the 1930s.
Prohibition, the eighteenth amendment to
the U.S. Constitution, was enacted in 1919 and repealed in 1933. Also in 1919,
Walter Gropius, who espoused the concept that "form follows function" and all
excess ornamentation should be avoided, founded the Bauhaus School in Germany.
U.S. women succeeded at last in winning the right to vote with passage of the
nineteenth amendment in190. L'Exposition internationale des arts de'coratifs et
industriels modernes was held in Paris in 1925; it became the derivation for the
style name "Art Deco' in the 1960s. The first movie "talkies" were introduced in
1927. The stock market crashed in 1929. Ernest Oppenheimer became chairman of De
Beers in 1930. The Diamond Products Association and the Diamond Trading Company
(TDC) were formed in 1933. Harry Winston opened a retail jewelry business in New
York City in 1932.
Platinum was back in widespread use after
World War I; white gold was popular for less expensive jewelry. Pav'e set
diamonds were often accented with caliber cut colored gemstones - rubies,
sapphires, emeralds and onyx in strong contrasting combinations. Carved jadeite
of Oriental influence, carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds from India ("tutti
frutti" or "fruit salad"), coral, rock crystal and pearls were all popular
gemstones for Art Deco jewels.
French haute joilliers Cartier, Van Cleef
& Arpels, Boucheron, Mauboussin, Lacloche Fre'res and Rubel Fre'res and
avant-garde designers Raymond Templier, Gerorges and Jean Fouquet and Jean
Dunand defined Art Deco style for Europeans. In the U.S., Cartier New York,
Tiffany & Co., Black, Starr & Frost, Raymond Yard and manufacturing jewelers
Oscar Heyman & Bros. and William Scheer, Inc. interpreted the style for American
tastes.
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